Category Archives: Infared Pictures

Follow Up Thought for Friday’s Summer Cooling Tips.

DeeDee and I started outside. The info from the back deck did not make the cut and I let it slide when i did the blog summary of her story.  So …

Shade Works

This is an Infrared image on one of my first new homes.  The 2 foot cantilever bay clearly shows the effect of the shade. There is a 20° F difference in the temperature between shaded and unshaded areas of the wall. The high temperatures on the side of the house are in the area of 128° F.  It is 97° F when I took this one.

Shade works.  Building a new home with a south facing set of large windows. It is worth your money to have a deck with a roof, or pergola over it. If you have an existing home, the Pergola is a great idea.

Concepts like this have been recommending in my Home Energy Audits.

And, Ladies and Gentlemen, Here Comes The Sales Pitch ….

thermal metic headerSince 2007,  all of the large insulation manufacturers and trade associations have been funding research of the Thermal Metric Project.  This project was conducted by Building Science Corporation, a respected source of independence and factually based information about energy efficiency in homes and other buildings.Batt side

The project testing Spray Foam, Fiberglass, rigid foam and cellulose. It studied batts and blown in fiberglass. You can find their final report, issued in June, 2015 on their website.  There are a lot of detailed measurements, graphs and data in the report. It is a good report that will serve well over the years.  The headlines are now beginning to show up in various social media. These are taken from the Executive Summary of the Report. When you see these in literature or social media of either insulation manufacturers trade associations, or contractors —  take the presentation with a couple of grains of salt.

So which ones will be spun for public consumption and what can one do to avoid a sales pitch. Let’s look at the main conclusions.

  • When walls are constructed with the same installed R-value in the stud space, and are air sealed, both inside and outside (i.e. there is effectively zero air leakage through the assembly), they exhibit essentially the same thermal performance regardless of the type of insulation materials used.
  • All of the tested wall assemblies were subject to thermal bridging regardless of the they of insulation material used in the stud space. Thermal bridging through the framing resulted in roughly 15% decrease in thermal performance.

There are seven more bullet points in the Executive Summary that get more technical then most builders and almost all home buyers want to know. For those that do, it is another blog post or reading the report themselves.tweet1

Here is the Tweet that I saw this morning and thought it was worth a Blog Post.

Notice the comparison is Cost.  Does this cost include the cost of proper installation and air sealing?  I have no idea. Following the links back to the website, I did find a cost of $4,000 for the batt type insulation.  Nothing about the size of the home or other details to make a reasonable comparison.

There is also no indication that batts are rarely installed according to manufacturer’s directions.  In the picture at the beginning, the batt is not installed according to the manufacturer’s instructions. In this area Dry Wall installers, will not warranty their workmanship if batts are installed according to manufacturer’s directions.

15aI included the Project’s second bullet point about Thermal Bridging.  Too many times, we hear references to an R-13 wall or R-19 wall.  This only refers to the space between the studs, not the wall.  Thermal Bridging represents the decreased value of insulation because there is wood in the wall.  Wood is R-1 per inch.  So each stud is 1 1/2 inches of R3.5 in a 2×4 wall.  This is the 15% decrease in performance.

The 15 percent also uses the recommendations from NAHB from their 1977 research on Optimum Value Framing. The National Association of Home Builders conducted this research to find ways to remove expensive wood studs almost 40 years ago.  Wood Studs are more expensive now, and still increasing. This IR image shows batts not installed according to manufacturer’s instructions (The Dark Blue Areas). It also shows the wood framing as a thermal bypass, mostly green with some blue on the top plates.

In the end, for the home buyer, a way to sort through all the sales pitch exists. For new homes of half of the new construction in 2013 was verified independently by a HERS Rater.  I do this in the Wichita metro area for builders and new home buyers.

Previous Blogs of Interest:

Installing Fiberglass Batts

Insulation in Your Walls

 

 

Indoor Air Quality Evaluations

The quality of the Indoor Air of our homes and offices is an important part of our health and comfort.

There is not much sense in putting a lot of good insulation into a building if it is:

  • Not Structurally Sound
  • Not Healthy

What types of things can be done to improve the Indoor Air Quality of any home or property?

  1. The immediate environment of the structure must be kept separate from the inside.
  2. The required fresh air that is needed, in every one of our buildings, should be filtered and otherwise treated for comfort and to remove pollutants.
  3. The pollutants that are created during the normal operation of our building must be eliminated, removed, replaced, diluted or neutralized.
  4. Moisture in any form must be controlled , and then removed avoiding any accumulation.
  5. Any and all accumulations of moisture damage or animal infestation must be cleaned up and damaged building components replaced.
  • A Full Indoor Air Quality evaluation must address all of those concerns.
  • Full interior visual inspection
  • Full exterior visual inspection
  • Testing of the building enclosure to ensure the outside stays outside
    • Infrared Evaluation as part of the above testing
  • Inspection of HVAC Duct Work and systems that move air.
  • Combustion Safety Inspection on open combustion appliances
    • Moisture, Carbon Monoxide, N02, SO2 and others
  • Infrared and other testing for moisture accumulations.
  • Sample Collection of suspended and/or deposited material that are potential pollutants or irritants.
    • Examination and Evaluation by a certified Microbiological Laboratory of these samples.

This evaluation is typically completed in two visits to the home or business. Level I Evaluation and Testing is non-destructive and not invasive.

Level II Evaluation and Testing involves invasive inspections. These may be as simple as drilling a few holes for visual inspection or sampling. It may involve removing obviously damaged building material, that requires replacement, for example wet drywall.

Contact The Energy Guy for further information about an Indoor Air Quality Evaluation.

The Energy Guy Gets a New Ride …

EG 4

 

OK!  Why a new car?  200K miles on the old one maybe?  Then being able to carry most if not all the equipment I need in one trip?  A moving billboard?

Yes to all of those!  So I had a Party.  Our Derby Chamber of Commerce hosts a Business to Business time once a month from 8 – 9.  Coffee and stuff that is guaranteed to add to my waist line.  They do a Ribbon Cutting when you join.  So I had mine this morning.  Here is the crew that came out for the Ribbon Cutting.EG 5Look closely, those are wooden scissors. Ceremony! So here is the next one with real scissors.EG 2Lots of wonderful people here.  Did they all come for my Ribbon Cutting?  I’d like to think so. This month the sponsor was Nova Care of Derby.

I’d like to thank the Derby Chamber, Mark and his staff Tim and Lindsi for helping out with this party.  I’d also like to thank my Ang’s  –  I had two guests today from Wichita.  Angie Tejeda and Angee MacMurray.  I posted a blog post a few weeks ago about a Twitter Conversation with Angee, take the link. I wrote about Igloo’s and my future plans.  No, I’m not building an Igloo.

Jen and Rick Brown showed up also.  I teach Sunday School with them. Thank You, Jen for the fine photography here.  And Thank You to everyone that came out to my party.  I must also acknowledge the the great folks at Mighty Wraps in Wichita.  Justin and Lori were great to work with during the design and application of the wrap.

If you see my ride around town – please Wave!

Passive House Work in Wichita

In the last two weeks, two national groups that certify construction for Passive House Standards conducted their annual conferences.  PHIUS was held in Portland, OR; and PHI was held in Maine. Locally, I have completed the first of 3 planned Blower Door tests for a passive concept home under construction; discussed the planned construction with another builder to start later this year; and discussed passive building concepts with another builder planning his first homes next year.

PassivhausDarmstadtKranichstein-300The Passive House concept started in Germany, with construction starting in 1990 on several homes. In German, it is Passiv Haus,  PHI for Passiv Haus Institute.  The standards followed by this concept require an attention to detail in design and construction of the thermal enclosure.  Historically referred to as the envelope, the thermal enclosure involves the exterior bottom, sides and top of the structure.

  • Higher than commonly used levels of insulating material,
  • windows meeting specific standards and very
  • Effective work on air sealing
  • Attention to the Solar Orientation of the home to maximize the use of solar heat in the winter

PHIThis results in an extremely low energy bill.  How low? In the Wichita area, this would translate to an $88 – $110 annual natural gas bill, instead of $500 – $900 bills that I routinely see on Home Energy Audits.

The passive term comes from the idea of using insulation and construction techniques to create a significant energy savings instead of relying on fancy machinery to create that savings. Dr. Wolfgang Feist of Dahrmstat, Germany founded the Passiv Haus Institut in 1996.

Smith HouseThe passive house concept arrived in the US in 2003.  Katrin Klingenberg, a licensed architect in Germany, She built a home meeting these standards, 2 hours south of Chicago.

 

Most countries have a local organization that trains and certifies homes and commercial buildings to the Passive Standard. Yes, passive concepts apply to buildings other than homes. These groups train people to apply and measure the standards. They also review the reports on specific buildings and accept or deny actual certification for a specific building.

PHIUSIn the US, this organization has been known as PHIUS.  Passive House Institute, US. Ms Klingenberg has been the leading light of this group, which was founded in 2007.  There are some things in each country that differ from the original German model of Passiv Haus.

The experience of the professionals working with PHIUS in the US has resulted in some changes to how the concept is applied in the US. For example, the metric units used in the German (and most others in the world) have been translated to the Imperial units used in the US. The collaborative nature of US business groups has been essential to moving the passive concept from being used by a relative few to becoming a market force in the US.

Because these adaptations by PHIUS to the US market, were not acceptable to the original PHI, a divide between the approaches has occurred in the US.  It is mostly technical, and both groups agree the concept is still primary.  Effective building resulting in low energy use.

Some claims have been made that these concepts are two expensive for the US market. The original Passive House in Illinois was built at a 2003 cost of $94/ sf.  That is very favorable with current US construction costs. Since additional people are using the concept and the resulting products that manufacturers are producing, the mass production will bring some drop in costs.

If you wish to read more about the two national conferences for both the PHI and the PHIUS organizations that just finished, you may use these articles.

The 9th annual North American Passive House Conference (PHIUS)

Report from the Passive House Conference in Maine

I will keep you updated on activity in this area about Passive House building activity, as it progresses.  Three projects is a great start.  I’m glad that builders are willing to try new concepts and that home buyers are willing to step up and buy these homes.

In the introduction of this post, I mentioned a house under construction with the Passive House concept. I conducted the first of 3 Blower Door Tests last week.  This test was after the framing and exterior sheathing was completed.  Insulation, plumbing, electrical and trades had not started.  The second test will be in a few weeks after these trades have done their initial work and put holes in the enclosure.  Electric wires, plumbing, HVAC and other necessary conveniences of our lives will be installed in passive concept homes. The third test will be done at the end of construction.

The PHI/PHIUS standard for Air Infiltration as measured by the Blower Door Test is 0.60 –  The current 2012 recommended code requirement for this is 3.0 — Wichita/Sedgwick County does not have an energy code in place, but the Kansas City area does. They enforce a 5.0 standard.  Typical homes built from 1980 and prior are in a range of 10 – 38 from my testing.

The goal of the builder on this passive concept home was to reach 1.5 on this first test. Then using the Infrared Camera to find areas to caulk, and fixing the penetrations mentioned above, have the next test come in lower.

Blower Door62This test, actually came in at 0.62 —  almost the standard.  Much better than the expected 1.5 .   While the blower door was running, the Infrared found some places that could be fixed.  Dan, the carpenter, was right there with a caulking gun.  We also found some leakage with biometrics. A back of your hand that is wet, will show you extremely small amounts of air movement.  Most builders like to use expanding foam to seal the actual window to the rough opening.  We found some of these foamed openings were still leaking. Again the caulking gun was a good answer.

 

What Happens After You Finish Your Part of the house, and Then The House Is Finished?

images-2Modern home building takes a lot of people. Concrete, Carpentry, Heating and Air, Paint, Drywall, Insulation, Electrical, Plumbing and many others. These professionals work on the house at various times. Usually there is a sequence, the foundation is done before the framing, the roof is done before inside work gets very far. Toward the end, it can get somewhat hectic. Everyone is trying to finish. The deadline is looming. Painters, trim carpentry, flooring, plumbing, final electrical installations are all happening.

One of the last things is the final work on the Heating and Air Conditioning system. This cannot happen until after the electrician is finished, and if you have a gas furnace, the plumbing must be there. Some of the work by the HVAC contractor was completed before the drywall went up. The duct work was installed and the inside unit of the system was probably put in place and hooked up to the duct work.

If the home is built on a 120 – 150 day schedule, the initial work, rough-in, on the duct system would happen about 1/3 of the way. Then about 2/3 of the waywall_duct, the Heating and Air techs are back to install the thermostat, the outside unit, hook up the electric and finish the job.

Last week, I went out to complete a rating on a new home. I had completed some testing on the duct system at rough-in. I used a Duct Blaster unit and testing the duct system for Total Leakage. I got a great number. There is a professional standard, issued ACCA (Air Conditioning Contractors of America) for this test. It is based on the size of the amount of air flow pushed through the system by the fan; in this case it would have been about 1,200 cubic feet per minute.

The standard is 10% of system air flow or in this case 120 CFM. In a previous blog post, I discussed a test where the system leaked over 100% of system air flow. This is an important test, because it can be compared to the test done at rough in.ACCA_5

The rough in test for Total Duct Leakage came in at 4.8% of system air flow. This is a very good number and typical for this HVAC contractor. Now at final, the total leakage was 16%. Wow! What happened?

I cleaned up and left the house about 6:00 for the weekend. Sleeping on the ‘What Happened?’ seemed like a great idea. I did just that.

Tuesday, I went back to take another look. I would conduct some additional testing to see if the leak(s) could be isolated. I started by removing the grills that fan the air out through each room. That would be easy and fast. So, the first few looked pretty good. It was going fast, I kept going and half way through I found one that showed some problems. At the end 1/3 of these grills had a significant problem.

Duct BootAs you can see the vent in the wall, had the drywall cut too large for the duct. The openings ranged from a quarter inch to over an inch wide, all around the opening. The air instead of 100% leaving the duct system into the room, was being pushed back into the wall. The idea of the duct system is to put the hot or cooled/dehumidified air into the room where the people are. A grill can do a great job of sending the air into various parts of the room. A good grill for one place may be absolutely the wrong grill for another place. Grill manufacturers refer to this as ‘Throw’. If you have the wrong throw on your grill, you aren’t getting much comfort from your system.

The infrared image, below, shows the outside of a wall in the winter (It was 20° F that morning). The hot area below the window is from the grill directing the heat up the wall, not out into the room. I found this condition on an audit last winter and made two alternate recommendations for the home owner. The cost was less than $20.00 for either one. The problem was fixed the same day by the homeowner.exterior_wall

Back to fixing the leaks! I filled the cracks and gaps in the poorly cut openings, replaced the grills and then set up to re-test the duct system. The leakage was back to the original number.

This shows the value of testing your work. We work with Quality Control Systems in our everyday work life. As consumers we depend on the quality of the products we buy. We see how companies respond when they are faced with a quality issue. A number years ago a lot of Tylenol was recalled. A few bottles had been tampered with, not really the manufacturer’s fault. They recalled anyway and their customers were well served. In the past few years, several auto manufacturers have had some problems with their cars, and they did not promptly recall the cars to fix the problem.

qcApplying good quality control lets the customers and the management of a company know the level of quality. The company can make drugs, cars, or install your heating and air system. In this case the quality work done by the Heating and Air techs was changed by another person working on the job. Good quality control found the problem. The fix took only a few minutes. Now the home buyer will not experience the discomfort from a badly installed duct system. I will not get a call in a few years because the home owner is not comfortable. The heating and air techs will not have a lot of call backs.

My thanks today goes to the crew at Cooks Heating and Air in Wichita. They did the quality work and deserve the credit. I am lucky to be able to work with people like this.

Those Pesky Directions

How many times have you started into a project and had to stop and redo some steps?  How many times have you finished and then realized that you had extra parts?  So what do we do?

Insulation RulerWe go back and read the directions! The manual!  It is so common there are several acronyms for reading the manual.  Directions written by the manufacturer serve several purposes. Some of the cynics around, including myself, realize there is a bit of self promotion and defense in these instructions.  We should also realize that the manufacturer has probably tried to put a few of these together. He may be sharing his wheel with us, so we don’t have to invent it ourselves.

Most importantly, the manufacturer knows how the piece was engineered. The directions take that knowledge and apply it to how the equipment is set up, used or installed. Equipment changes over time. New features are added, materials change and the way it used to be done, is not a good idea.  So, read the manual.

See the attic rafters above. This is the top of a vaulted ceiling, and the insulator has properly placed an insulation ruler.  In a few weeks, blown insulation will be installed and the tech needs to measure how much. The use of the ruler and blowing the insulation level are two of the biggest helps to installing blown attic insulation.  And Yes! They are in the manual!

The choice of this picture isn’t the insulation ruler, it is the nail grid on the ceiling joists. Machine applied in the truss shop, it is fast easy and effective.  Notice the upper right hand corner of the grid.  That is a sharp edge. Be careful, it will cut things.  Hands, pants, shoe tops. Yes! All of those and don’t ask me how I know that!  My wife makes me carry a first aid kit with lots of bandaids for a reason.Duct 1

The house I finished a rating on yesterday had these nail grids on the floor trusses between the basement and the main floor. It also had the HVAC Ducts run between and through the trusses.  The contractor on this job uses sheet metal supply plenums and take offs. He uses the flex duct to form the return air side of his duct system. Yes!  Flex duct gets torn also. Especially with a nail grid.

Two weeks ago, I tested this home. The duct system was very leaky.  According to the Quality Installation Verification Standard written by the Air Conditioning Contractors of America, it was leaking 100%. Wow!  I’ve tested this contractors work before. He always does better than this.  So I ran the test again. Checked my set up.  No change. So I called him.  Shon came right out.  He looked over the system and immediately saw a couple of problems. Including this section of flex duct.

ZeroNow, two weeks later, his crew has reworked their ducts. I’m back to test it again.  I run the same test and scratch my head.  What leakage –  I can get the readings right. The picture left shows no air flow, on the right side, and a very low pressure difference, on the left side of my manometer.  The procedure is to have the Blower Door depressurized the house. Then you depressurized the duct system with the duct blaster to equalize the pressure.  When the pressure difference comes down to Zero, you read the leakage to the outside of the house.

So I checked my set up and tested again. Still no readings.  So ….   I read the manual.  In this case a Field Guide from the Quality Folks at my RESNET Provider and The Energy Conservatory that makes my equipment. I read it twice.  Then it hit me.  This line: Check the duct pressure. A negative duct pressure indicates leakage to the outside. If the duct pressure measure Zero with the Blower Door running, then the leakage to outside is Zero CFM.

As you can guess, the leaks when I tested two week previous prevented this result. What changed?  The crew had found a small tear in the flex from one of the nail grids. Did you see it in the picture up above?  I can see it because I know it is there.  So I enhanced the image and that one is posted below.  To get around all the reflections of the silver colored coating, I placed a piece of white plastic inside the flex so the hole would show.Duct 2

So reading those pesky directions on a test that I routinely run, gets me the right answer. What about the Heating and Air Contractor.  Shon does good work on his jobs, because he follows the professional guidelines and tests his work.  In this case he knew the test, he knew what it meant and immediately saw how to fix it.  What would have been the result if this basement had been finished out and then he had to remove drywall to fix it?

Why is ZERO duct leakage to the outside important?  I don’t want to pay money to heat or cool the outside. If your ducts leak very much to the outside or don’t distribute the air properly, then you are spending more than you need to.  Installing ducts with no leakage to the outside in a new home is an easy process for the contractor. It give the home owner a much better value.

DuctLeak2 copyYes!  I have found duct leakage behind drywall also.  Here is an infrared image of a finished basement ceiling. The homeowners complaint is there is no air flow into his bedroom and it is cold in the winter and hot in the summer. To get this image I turned the furnace up to about 80° F. It was usually about 73° F.  I stretched out on the basement floor and waiting for the heat from the furnace to leak into the cavity between the main floor and the basement ceiling.  In a couple of minutes I had heat patterns showing.  You can see where the duct is running up and down next to the floor joist. Interesting heat spot to the right next to the other joist. Also across the joist and over to the left joist. So we are seeing the duct and hot spots on each side 16 inches away.  Lots of lost heat not getting into his bedroom.

The home with the infrared picture had the leaks on the supply side of the duct system. The one I tested yesterday had the leaks fixed on the return side. I could not have tested with the infrared in the same way yesterday.

So, on this Independence Day, we celebrate!  We celebrate our freedom to be in a business we love, where we can do some good, and make a difference.  And yes, where we can make a living for our families.  We also celebrate the freedom to know our job, to continue to learn as things change and to utilize our professional standards to keep our customers happy and satisfied.

Have a Safe and Happy 4th of July!

Credits:  Photos, myself.  Insulation Ruler –  Northstar Comfort Systems Install.  Duct system install tested yesterday with no leakage to the outside — Shon Peterman and Midwest Mechanical.  The audit providing the infrared image, my customer Craig. The new home tested yesterday courtesy of Sharon and Wade Wilkinson of GJ Gardner Homes. It is in Fontana.

 

A Home Energy Audit — The Value

There is lots of discussion about Home Energy Audits. Utility companies may be providing them to their customers. You can find sources locally and nationally to provide you with one. There are sources online, and several outfits that will sell you a kit to ‘Do It Yourself’!   What should you expect from and audit? Is it worth the expense? Today’s post covers one audit and the results.

A homeowner called wanting to get a handle his old drafty 2 story all brick home.  He thought insulation in the un-insulated walls would help with heat and with the drafts.   He also wanted to know what else might work, and he was interested in how quickly any investment in his home might be recovered with savings from heat or cooling bills.

My visit revealed a nicely maintained home, with minimal energy efficiency beyond the current building practice of 90 years. There had been a few things done in the 1930’s and in the 1980’s that helped.

In discussing the concerns of the family, it was clear they liked their home very much. They had lived there long enough that through re-decorating, gardening and life – it was their home. Comfort issues were not the first concern. There big question was ‘what can we do to save some money?’.  In discussing that, the living room was mentioned as the room that was hot in the summer and cold in the winter.

The audit visit collected data from observation, my tape measure, some pictures.  I looked up in the attic, down in the basement as well as out and around. The furnace, AC and water heater were inspected. The manufacturer had issued a ‘Heat Rise” specification, so testing for that was part of the audit. There was a conventional water heater, and we did a ‘Worst Case Combustion Air Zone” test.

Finally, we would use a Blower Door and an Infrared Camera to measure and locate the potential drafts.

I found some insulation in the attic spaces, and confirmed the homeowners concern of un-insulated walls.

The furnace was within specifications heat rise.  The Worst Case Combustion Air Zone test passed.  The details on these tests and their meaning for a homeowner will be the subject of future posts.

We ran the Blower Door Test.  This test allows us to simulate a 20 mph wind on all 4 sides of the home and the ceiling at the same time. After running the test, standardizing the numbers for temperature difference, and accuracy; the house tested with a Natural Air Exchange at 1.3 times per hour.  The recommend rate without any type of added ventilation is 0.35 times per hour.

With the data collected, a computer model of the energy use in this house was created.  This showed insulating the basement would return the cost in about 5 years. Sealing the leaks revealed by the blower door test would pay off in about 10 years. The leaks were in the basement near the 1st floor; between 1st and 2nd floors and at the ceiling of 2nd floor or 1st floor where it was attic above.

Increasing the R-15 to R-60 in the attic would take 11 years to pay off. Improving a wall on the 2nd floor between a hall and the attic about 20 years to pay off.  And the exterior walls to be insulated would take about 99 years to pay off.  These periods all use the current utility rates, with no price inflation.

The homeowners contacted several contractors to obtain actual prices on the various improvements.  They chose to do some air sealing, insulate the basement walls, the attic, and the wall between the hall and the attic, and to install a new furnace and air conditioner.

After the work was complete, I returned to do a verification audit of the work. The new Blower Door test showed the planned 25% reduction was reached.  The HVAC installation included a new return line to the living room, which has reduced the temperature difference, so the room is no longer shut off on warm days in the summer or cold days in the winter.

BeforeBelow are two before and after infrared images. They show the 2nd floor hallway from the same point. The before picture was taken in February about 11:30 am.  This hallway is on the east side of the roof peak.

 

AfterThe after picture is taken in June about 5:00 pm. The February outside temperature was 46 degrees; the June outside temperature was 98 degrees. Both images were taken with the blower door moving air from inside the house to the outside; simulating a windy day.

 

 

The center of the clipped ceiling (diagonal slope) measures  78 degrees  in the before picture. In the after picture it measures 97 degrees.  So the outside temperature of 45 degrees before  work translated to a 33 degree increase passed through the deteriorated insulation.  After work 98 degree outdoor temperature translates to a 0 degree increase passed through the air sealed and new insulation.

If you look closely the air sealing could have been improved. The planned 25% decrease was accomplished.  It would have been nice to exceed the plan.

What good are the results?  The increased insulation is allowing the AC to work a whole lot less!  If the home had a 33 degree increase in June as it did in February – summer in Wichita would have been miserable in that home.  Also when the new furnace was installed the contractor running the new return to the living room, found a old return in the room that had no duct work. So he hooked up to that return grill for less than planned.  The living room is now comfortable.

Will your Home Energy Audit achieve these kind of results?  Perhaps it will!  If you would like to find out – give us a call.  We would be happy to discuss in more detail how your Home Energy Audit would work.

Build Your Own Home Energy Audit

A comprehensive Home Energy Audit takes time and covers a number of areas. It provides lots of information and recommendations.  A homeowner may choose to limit the inspection to those items of their concern.

The energy efficiency of each home combines an analysis of the components of the home and how well they are installed.  Think of a bucket of water, the bucket is the walls and ceiling of your home. A pinhole in the bucket will drain the water from the bucket and the heat from your home!

A Home Energy Audit looks at the ability of each building component to resist the transfer of heat. The air tightness of each component is also reviewed.

This post covers a description of each part of a comprehensive Home Energy Audit.

Pricing, previously contained in this post, is posted separately.

Utility Analysis

The actual usage over the last 12 months of Electric and Gas is compared to the home size and evaluated. This requires information from the Utility Companies.

Infiltration Testing                 

(Multi-point Blower Door Testing with Thermal Imaging and Indoor Air Quality Analysis)

Everyone has felt a cold draft at one time or another. Since the air blew in and the house didn’t pop like an overfilled balloon, the air blew out somewhere else.  This test simulates a 20 MPH wind on all four sides of the home at the same time. It allows an actual measurement of leakage and it identifies the leaks. This allows a specific plan for the leaks in your home to be fixed.

The recommendations will include effective measures to improve indoor air quality, not just install what the salesman has in-stock. If you have de-humidifiers running this Testing is important.

Ceiling Evaluation:

The ceiling and attic areas are examined for insulation, ventilation and thermal bypasses. This is done from the outside of the home, the inside in all rooms and from the attic. It may involve remote camera usage. If Infiltration Testing is part of the package, information from the Thermal Imaging portions are applied to the ceiling Evaluation.

Foundation Wall Evaluation (below grade):        

In most homes a major source of heat loss is from the crawl space, the slab or the basement walls. There are generically referred to as the foundation of your home. Traditionally, builders have confused the thermodynamic principles involved, with hot air rising and heat loss, to falsely assume that basements cannot be kept warm.

Wall Evaluation (above grade):

Homes over twenty years old, or homes with a major insulation failure may benefit from a specific wall evaluation for walls above grade.  It is part of a comprehensive  energy audit. All wall evaluations are conducted with Non-Destructive-Test Methods to start. Depending on the home, the type of construction, access to various areas, further testing that involves minor holes being drilled will be discussed with and approved by the homeowner before the end of the evaluation.

The condition and energy efficiency of your exterior siding is done at this point.            

Equipment (furn. AC, hot water):                    (Includes safety checks on Gas Fired Equipment)

Your heating and cooling equipment is a large investment. What are the efficiency ratings on your existing equipment and what is available on the market? How does a home owner sort out fact from sales pitch.  This inspection includes safety testing for gas fired equipment. Furnace, Heat Pump, AC, Hybrid Heat Pump, are included.

Windows and Door Evaluation:           

Windows are advertised everywhere.  On the Radio, TV, the newspapers and other print media all carry large volumes of sales pitch for replacement windows. The FTC has fined some window companies for outlandish claims on energy savings.

Are your windows an energy problem? Can those energy problems be fixed or should the windows be replaced? What is the best for my home?  Low E, argon filled, double pane, triple pane? How does a double pane window save energy?  All these questions and more are answered. And you get the answers from someone that does not have a financial interest in your purchase or non-purchase of a product.

Windows and Doors are both holes in the wall.  From an energy loss standpoint there is not much difference. Doors are not as heavily advertised, but they are pushed after the salesman gets to quote your home.          

Computer Modeling and Reporting

The Comprehensive Home Energy Audit provides a complete energy usage model and reporting of problems, recommendations and solutions. Interactions between building components are considered in the computer model. You can go from the report to soliciting firm prices from a contractor or doing it yourself with this report. This reporting will qualify for applying for and Energy Improvement Mortgage if you are buying a home, or refinancing your current home.

If you choose various parts of the Home Energy Audit, written reports and recommendations will also be provided. These will all you can go from the report to soliciting firm prices from a contractor or doing it yourself with this report. The reports are limited to the selections made. Interactions between building components are not considered.

Duct Leakage Testing Not included in the comprehensive audit.

Some comfort and energy loss issues involve improperly installed ductwork. Testing is easy. Fixing these problems can vary in complexity depending on the home.      

Lighting and Appliances Not included in the comprehensive audit.

Incandescent, halogen, CFLs, LEDs, which is best for your home?  Not every fixture needs a high efficiency light! Should I get a new fridge or other appliance?  All these are part of the Lights and Appliances.

Bonus Room (over the garage, or in the attic) Included in the comprehensive audit.

Rooms placed over a garage or in the attic are a special case. They are part of a comprehensive audit. They can be an individual item, with infiltration testing, due to the unique construction problems with them.

For more information or to schedule a Home Energy Audit:  

V / T  316 641-5258  or  email:  info@efficientenergysavers.com

Shivering And Bowl Turning are not Compatible!

When I am not out auditing homes, or working with builders on Energy Star New Homes, I enjoy Woodturning! Making a bowl or other turned object is fascinating; it takes my mind from serious things and to important things. It lowers my blood pressure!

I have been using my garage to work with my lathe and the wood! It keeps my head from getting sunburned, and keeps the sun and weather off the wood waiting to be turned.  My. attached garage is 57 years old. The common wall between the garage had unsealed drywall on the garage side!  The exterior walls are open studs. The house is old enough the wall and  roof sheathing is 1x material. You could see the boards that were used to form the basement walls.  That is one form of recycling!

The use of 1x material, despite the recycling, is not the most green approach that could have been used. The garage has not really been usable in the cold, so 4-5 months are lost. I have tried various types of heating to allow work to proceed. It works with warmer, less windy days. This is Kansas and there aren’t many of those!

One of the personal goals involved in my becoming an energy auditor was to learn how to make my shop workable 12 months a year. My study of insulation types, heat loss, installation methods and costs, all applied to my quest!

I looked at installing Fiberglass Batts, inexpensive.  I thought about adding rigid foam, also inexpensive. I could do the labor on each of these.  Each of those would require a covering, at least for physical protection of the insulation, and ignition protection of the rigid foam. The same problem, of a protective covering would apply to blown in rock wool, fiberglass or cellulose. And yes, I could do those or contract them out.

Each of these choices must also have the insulation in contact with the Air Barrier, to work at the rated R-Value. In our climate zone, the air barrier is the lath and plaster, or drywall.

The other option, slightly more expensive than the others is commercial 2 part Closed Cell Spray Foam.  This product at 1 inch thickness provides an air barrier. The manufacturer’s material shows R-6.5 per inch.  So 2 ½ inches is about R-15.  And the air barrier and the thermal barrier are in contact thus forming a valid thermal envelope.  The underside of the roof deck and the walls could be done.  The actual time to install would be less than one working day.

So one March 1, the Foam Installer was here and sprayed the foam.  Following the weather in March we had several days the low temperature was in the 30s, with highs in the 50’s or 60’s.  By April the lows moved into the high 40s and 50s.

Now it is July and we have had highs in the triple digits or close for about three weeks.  Lows in the 70’s, a few 80s and high 60s.

How is the insulation performing?

The temperature in March never dropped below 50 degrees, even on the days with a low of 35.  One night I left a window open and the low of 40 did not drop the temperature below 55 after a 65 degree high.  That seems very satisfactory to me.

Since our high temperatures hit the 90s and then into the triple digits, I have observed a 5 – 10 degree delay in the temperature inside the garage.  I don’t have any AC there.  So a 103 degree day like today, the temperature in the Garage was 93.

I have two fans to create air movement.  One is a squirrel cage fan I purchased at a garage sale.  The other is a box fan.  I also can turn on the air cleaner hanging from the ceiling and it will move air around the garage. Use of the fans with doors and windows providing a source of air movement have made those triple digit days seem much more like 80 in the shop.

My choice to insulate my garage for use as a shop was not simply based on this type or that type of insulation.  It was based on how the wall would work with an air barrier and a thermal barrier in contact.

I could have used: Fiberglass, Rockwool or Cellulose with drywall covering. The time involved with any of these would work using a contractor or doing it myself and would have taken several days to a week.  Going the Closed Cell Spray Foam approach took less than a day, and I was done.

When winter comes, as it always does, I will watch and comment again. The old furnace is now installed in the attic of the garage to kick on if the temperature drops below 40 degrees.

One goal is to have a shop that is warm enough to work in all year round. Another is to keep the shop equipment above Dew Point.  That is the temperature when the humidity begins to condense on cold objects. In the summer we think of our cold beverages sweating .  Today the Dew Point was 59 degrees and any cold beverage, including tap water is colder than that. If the temperature of the equipment goes below dew point, the condensation will cause rust.

Rust on the shiny steel of the saws or the lathe is not good. So here is to keeping the shop above the dew point, and your cold beverage below dew point.

Cheers!